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Castle Ruins Makes Ha Ha Tonka a Fascinating Missouri State Park

Ha Ha Tonka

By Kathie Sutin,
Healthy Planet Staff Writer

Photo: The ruins of Kansas City businessman Robert McClure Snyder’s grandiose dream are visible at Ha Ha Tonka State Park.

With the holidays behind us and bleak winter days ahead, what better time to start planning a spring or summer getaway?

Our state has scores of great places to explore but a good place to start is Missouri State Parks.

My favorite is the stunning Ha Ha Tonka State Park at the Lake of the Ozarks near Camdenton.

This park comes close to having it all—great hiking trails, beautiful vistas, a large spring, caves, sinkholes, a natural rock bridge — and the haunting ruins of a turn-of-the-century castle.

From its very name to the castle ruins, Ha Ha Tonka intrigues the visitor.

Native Americans bestowed the name Ha Ha Tonka on the area. However, its meaning —Laughing Waters — is thought not to be an exact translation.

The spring drew the attention of Native Americans and settlers early on although transportation to the area was challenging.

In the early 1900s there was talk of making Ha Ha Tonka a state or national park but Robert McClure Snyder, a wealthy Kansas City businessman, had other thoughts. He bought some 5,000 acres in the area in 1904 with the idea of building a 60-room European style stone castle there as a personal getaway.

Tragically, he died short of fulfilling his dream when he was killed in one of Missouri’s first car crashes. His family proceeded with a scaled back version of the castle.

At the same time plans were underway to build Bagnell Dam creating Lake of the Ozarks. Despite his son’s attempt to thwart the dam’s construction, it was completed in 1931 dividing Snyder’s estate and swallowing the spring-fed lake the castle was built on.

Later a Kansas City woman bought the castle to operate as a hotel. That business ended in 1942 when fire destroyed the castle leaving only its ruins on the site. In 1978, Ha Ha Tonka finally became a state park.

Today visitors can fish, boat and hike the park’s 16 trails which include five deemed “rugged.” Ha Ha Tonka has no campgrounds but there is a special use camping area and three backpacking campsites. And visitors can, of course, gaze upon the ruins of Snyder’s castle and contemplate his derailed dream.

Ha Ha Tonka may be Missouri’s most intriguing park but it’s only the beginning. Admission to the state’s 56 parks is free making them attractive destinations for budget getaways.

For more information, check out mostateparks.com.